About Yeish Kemach

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Food is a powerful force. Beyond daily nourishment, it is a means for communal engagement, cultural celebration and creative expression. Jewish tradition teaches: Eem eyn kemach, eyn Torah. Eem eyn Torah, eyn kemach. * If there is no flour (sustenance) there is no Torah. If there is no Torah, there is no flour. (Pirkei Avot 3:21) Yeish kemach is translated as "There IS sustenance!" This food blog helps add this sustenance to your life. It is primarily designed around Jewish holidays, and is an interactive blend of Torah and Kemach. Posts will most often focus on a particular recipe or menu, including an explanation for how food brings Jewish tradition to life. Posts also allow for communal teaching and learning through the ending she'elah (question), which you are invited to answer. B'tei'avone!

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Thursday, November 24, 2011

Zucchini Red Lentil Soup - Fulfill Your Destiny

Rivers belong where they can ramble
Eagles belong where they can fly
I've got to be where my spirit can run free
Got to find my corner of the sky
-Pippin

In the musical tale of Pippin we encounter a character desperate to discover his purpose.  At the start of his story Pippin feels like a square peg in a round hole, pushed to walk in the footsteps of his royal father as a soldier-in-training.  It’s not working, and Pippin feels discomfort in his own skin.  He turns to the audience and vows to discover his true destiny. 

Parshat Toldot broaches this same question of destiny as twin brothers are pulled in opposing directions, trying to negotiate their birth order amongst the competing interests of their parents, personality traits … and a pot of red lentil stew.  To summarize – Rivka births twin sons, Esav and then Ya’akov.  As the older brother, Esav holds the birthright to succeed their father Yitzchak.  However, after a tiring hunt one day Esav exchanges his birthright with Ya’akov for a pot of red lentil stew.  Secretly aided by his mother, Ya’akov seals the deal by tricking his father into blessing him accordingly.

This first question this twisted tale raises is the following: If the almighty God is directing this show, and wanted Ya’akov to receive the birthright, then why not shuffle the kids around in Rivka’s womb so that Ya’akov is born first?  Why the drama of deception?  The sequence of events teaches us to understand an individual’s personality – qualities, strengths, interests, limits - in order to help them reach their potential. 

Who is Esav?  A child who emerged from the womb red and covered with hair, Esav was said to be an adventurous man of action.  From an early age he is distinguished as a hunter and man of the field.  On the day in question he returns from a hunt, ravenous, and is focused exclusively on his appetite.  Commentators are rather harsh on Esav, suggesting that he grew excited in the womb when Rivka passed by tents of idol worship, that his red coloring when born was an early sign of bloodshed, and that his skills as a hunter were merely traits of someone who likes to deceive.  This isn’t entirely fair, as the text also reveals Esav’s tender side.  He uses his skills as a hunter to thoughtfully bring meat to his family.  A more modern interpretation suggests that Esav is the first diagnosed case of ADHD.  He enjoys being active, and can exhibit a lack of impulse control.  Rabbi Michael Rothbaum points to one passage containing a string of successive verbs describing Esav  - he “ate and drank and arose and left” (Bereshit 25:34) after partaking in this infamous pot of red lentils.  One action after the other.  

Who is Ya’akov?  The text simply describes him as “an innocent man, dwelling in tents” (Bereshit 25:27).  Commentators suggest that he grew excited in the womb when Rivka passed by tents of learning, that he was more calm and rational.  Yet, clearly he was also a cunning man.  While Esav may be our first case of ADHD, Ya’akov hatched the first strategic plan when he quickly negotiated some grub for a birthright.

When I read about this exchange, my first inclination is to feel bad for Esav ha’Edom (the red).  Poor guy returns from a hunt and asks his closest living relative for some lunch.  What happened to the spirit of brotherhood and sharing?  Couldn’t Ya’akov have given him a bowl of tasty lentil stew without the expectation of anything in return (Pirkei Avot 5:13)?  Instead, Ya’akov cheated Esav and deprived him of his destiny (ironic, as our commentators say that hunters are known for their acts of deception!).  The tension is only enhanced as the parents each pressure a different son to take the lead.  I envision the family of four in a boxing ring.  Rivka stands behind Ya’akov, who is focused on overcoming Esav.  Yitzchak tries to get Esav to focus on overtaking Ya’akov, but the distracted Esav simply wants to flee the ring and head back into the field for his next hunt.  Had this incident unfolded differently our entire story may have taken a different course under the leadership of Esav (see Back to the Future II where Doc Brown illustrates the time continuum to Marty McFly on the chalkboard). 
 
“Despise no man and deem nothing impossible; for there is no man who does not have his day and there is no thing that does not have its place.” (Pirkei Avot 4:3)


Alas, as a true Jewish educator God had a lesson in mind when he scripted Toldot.  Adults seem to be naturally inclined to push kids to reach heights or to fit a mold they set.  Must Esav be relegated to a birthright simply because he emerged from the womb first and because this is what his father wants?  To the contrary - Ya’akov uses the red lentils to help his “red” brother settle into his skin.  Fed and refueled by the stew, Esav returns to the field where he feels at home and can be in his “right place.”  The proof is a couple of parshiyot later in Vayishlach when the brothers are reunited.  Yitzchak is worried that Esav still harbors ill feelings over the red lentil debacle, and is pleasantly surprised when Esav greets him with warmth.  Score one for the red lentils!  …and speaking of which…

A Great Soup!

A must-cook recipe for Shabbat Toldot is Zucchini Red Lentil Soup.  The recipe is adapted from Susie Fishbein’s Kosher by Design Lightens Up! and is delicious.  Zucchini and onions are sautéed with a sweet and savory mix of chopped garlic and ground sage and thyme.  The flavor combination is wonderful.  Fresh dill, stock, salt and pepper add more depth to the flavor.  The result is a surprisingly sweet blend.  After boiling and a visit from an immersion blender, the red lentils are added to make the soup rich and hearty.  The recipe is so easy and healthful, and the results phenomenal.

To make the significance of this recipe on Shabbat Toldot even more pronounced, I served it to twin siblings who were guests at my recent Shabbat table.  Fortunately the two sibs get along quite well, and I am happy to report that the son gave the soup two strong thumbs up!!!

ZUCCHINI RED LENTIL SOUP
 
Yields: 6 servings

Ingredients
1 tbl. olive oil
1 large sweet onion, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
4 cloves fresh garlic, coarsely chopped
½ tsp. dried sage
¼ tsp. dried thyme

3 medium zucchini, with skin, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
¼ cup fresh dill, stems trimmed, loosely packed
6 cups low-sodium chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup dried red lentils

Instructions
  1. Heat the olive oil in a large soup pot over medium-low heat.  Add the onion, garlic, sage and thyme.  Cook until the onion is translucent; do not allow it to brown.
  2. Add the zucchini and dill.  Saute for 4-5 minutes, until zucchini is a little shiny.
  3. Add the stock.  Simmer for 15-20 minutes, or until the zucchini is soft. 
  4. Using an immersion blender, puree the soup until it is creamy.  Add the lentils.  Simmer, stirring occasionally, for 8 minutes. 

SHE'ELAH: Do you think Ya'akov's means justified the end?  Is deception ever an appropriate tactic in the pursuit of something in which you believe?

Sunday, November 20, 2011

Lemon Rosemary Roast Chicken - Uniting Jews thru Shabbat

"More than Jews have kept Shabbat, Shabbat has kept the Jews." - Ahad Ha'am

Shabbat is the weekly day identified for gratitude, delight and rest.  Observance of Shabbat is so core to Jewish belief that it is the only ritual practice identified by God in the 10 Commandments.  Our most common understanding of Shabbat is that it is a day to cease our own work and creation and offer thanks for all we have been provided.  This simple idea can be transformative for those who immerse themselves in regular appreciation.  As Ben Zoma teaches, "Who is rich?  The one happy with what they have" (Pirkei Avot 4:1).  Shabbat sets the stage for us to realize our wealth.

Still, Torah scholars dig deeper in uncovering the layers of meaning behind Shabbat's placement in the 10 Commandments.  The 10 Commandments actually appear twice in the Torah, and Rabbi Elliot Dorff draws one understanding of Shabbat from this dual occurrence.  When the mitzvah of Shabbat first appears in Shemot (Exodus) it is linked with God's act miracle of creation.  The text states:


For in six days the Lord made heaven and earth, the sea, and all that is in them, and rested the seventh day; therefore the Lord blessed the sabbath day, and made it holy. (Shemot 20:11).

The words of the Torah, the wisdom of Ben Zoma and the interpretation of Dorff lead us to apply the brakes to life as we cease pursuing wealth, work and "stuff" to acknowledge our great wealth based on the resources provided to us by God.

Rabbi Dorff explains that the second iteration of the 10 Commandments grounds the importance of Shabbat in our exodus from Egypt and emergence as a Jewish nation.  In D'varim (Deuteronomy) we read:

And remember that you were a servant in the land of Egypt, and that the Lord your God brought you out from there with a mighty hand and with a stretched out arm; therefore the Lord your God commanded you to keep the sabbath day. (D'varim 5:15
When God facilitated our exodus from slavery he also started our story as a Jewish community; a community that provides its individuals with support in times of joy and in times of struggle.

Shabbat observance is unraveled in a plethora of ritual practices related ranging from themes to prayer and learning, to the practicalities of use of electricity and food preparation.  Some find these practices enhance their celebration of Shabbat, while others find them off putting.  Regardless of your adoption of these practices, we cannot stray from the central themes of gratitude and peoplehood.  Zionist luminary, Ahad Ha'am, explained the magic of Shabbat perfectly!  Shabbat provides us with a time to express gratitude, but, more importantly, to come together as a community and enjoy each other.

...and this is why Lemon Rosemary Roast Chicken prepared for Shabbat can unite us!


Why This Recipe?

Nothing brings people together like comfort food, and roast chicken certainly falls into that category.  In general, I'm a big fan of this preparation.  When done properly you get a beautiful, golden, juicy bird.  Too often, though, I feel the flavor of plain roast chicken is decent at best.  The combination of tangy, sweet lemon with the earthy rosemary is classic, and a provides a perfect bath for this comfort dish.

The first step is to construct a powerful marinade.  The mix of fresh lemon juice and zest, along with a little bit of olive oil is balanced against flavorful rosemary and a punch from the freshly ground pepper.  A pinch of salt brings out the flavors.  Take two whole chicken drop them in a plastic, ziplock bag (best way to marinade!!!) and soak them in their lemon, rosemary bath.  Stick the bag in the refrigerator overnight to let the marinade work its magic.

The second key to this recipe is in the items used to stuff the chicken.  It is only fitting in this recipe to start with sprigs of fresh rosemary and quartered lemons.  I then add a half bulb of garlic and one or two quarters of brown onion to each cavity to add depth to the flavor. 


LEMON ROSEMARY ROAST CHICKEN

Serves: 8

Ingredients

2 small to medium chickens*

Marinade:
2/3 c. freshly squeezed lemon juice
3 tbsp. olive oil
1/3 c. ground black pepper
½ c. fresh, chopped rosemary (1/4 c. dried)
¼ tsp.salt

Filling:
1 lemon, quartered
6 sprigs fresh rosemary
½ brown onion, quartered
1 bulb garlic, halved horizontally
¼ tsp. salt

Instructions
  1. Combine the marinade and pour over chicken. Marinate at least 3 hours or overnight in a zip lock bag in the refrigerator.
  2. Preheat oven to 425° F.
  3. Place the lemon pieces, rosemary sprigs, onion and garlic in the cavity of the chicken if a whole bird is used.
  4. Roast whole chicken for 15 minutes per pound. Do not open oven or baste during cooking. 
  5. Remove from oven and ensure bird is cooked (juices run clear when cut). Cover with aluminum foil for 15 minutes and let rest. Carve and serve.
*Alternatively, you can use chicken pieces, remove the skin and bake at 350 for 1 ½ hours.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Curried Pea Soup - A Satiating Dish for Guests

During the late 90's I had the good fortune to spend a year abroad in Israel.  While in the Holy Land I got to experiment with various Jewish rituals, primarily rooted in Shabbat observance.  Shabbat was always an honored time in my week while growing up in the States, but my observance there was fairly stable from birth through most of college.  In Israel I was exposed to a range of practices, especially in Friday night davening (services).  From the small shuls of Jerusalem the liturgy came to life through vibrant singing, concentrated intention and an unparalleled sense of togetherness.  My roommate and I took a particular liking to davening at a shul called Yakar where the sounds of Shabbat filled the neighborhood of Old Katamon with a truly holy spirit.

On one particular Shabbat my roommate and I asked the synagogue to set us up with a host couple for dinner.  They gave us the couple's name and address, and after services we walked to their building but couldn't figure out which unit was theirs.  The number we were given was unoccupied, and we spent a good 5-10 minutes walking up and down the building's stairwell searching for our meal (err, I mean the couple...).  A family on the ground floor took notice of us, and explained that the couple in question had recently moved.  OY!  The anticipation of a delicious home cooked meal was lingering in our stomachs, and this was hardly the news we wanted to hear at 7:30pm on a Friday night.  Not to worry, the family who discovered us immediately insisted that we join their table.  "It's just another two guests, and it is Shabbat!" exclaimed the matriarch as she pulled up two chairs.  We tried to politely bow out, not wanting to impose - but they insisted we join them. So, we settled in for a delicious meal, lively conversation and joyous singing.

Where else in the world does this happen?  Can you remember the last time you noticed a couple of guys walking by aimlessly and insisted they join you for dinner?  ...and, yet, the red carpet on which we walked is one so common in Israel, first rolled out by Avraham in Parshat Vayeira.  In this story, Avraham sees three strangers approach his tent and insists they join him and Sarah for some R & R and a nice meal.  The generosity is incredibly selfless, and certainly teaches us the importance of good hachnasat orchim. (Read more about my musings on this parshah here.)

Curry Pea Soup

Shabbat has now become my prime time to practice hachnasat orchim, and I am always on the look out for good Shabbos recipes.  Soup is a staple on my menu, and has become my favorite dish to prepare.  Soups can be underrated, which is a shame.  They are pretty easy to prepare, can be incredibly healthful, come in such wide variety ... and keep well in the fridge.  Not only does a 2- or 3-day old pot not taste like leftovers, I think soup tastes better after it has sat for a couple of days.  This makes it a great dish to prepare for those whole like to get a head start on Shabbat cooking in the middle of the week.

A year ago I was given a recipe for a unique sounding pea soup with curry.  Most pea soups I've had come from the split pea - a dried out remnant of the original.  This recipe calls for fresh or frozen peas, and the curry adds an incredible depth to the flavor, producing an aroma that smells distinctly of delicious Indian cooking.

The recipe was quite good in its original form, but after some experimentation I made two modifications.  First, I added spinach to the recipe for additional nutritional content.  Cooked spinach has many great health benefits.  It is low in saturated fat, and very low in cholesterol. It is also a good source of niacin, and a very good source of dietary fiber, protein, vitamins A, C, E & K, iron and more.  It certainly adds to the green coloring, and when blended in to the soup it hardly alters the flavor.  Second, I decided to add chicken to the recipe.  This is completely optional, but I usually keep soup on hand to eat throughout the week and want it to be substantial as a main course.  In this case, the chicken adds great protein to an already healthful dish.

Another perk of the soup - it's made using an immersion blender, my favorite kitchen appliance!  An immersion blender is like a magic wand - just stick it into your soup pot, press the button to turn it on and within two minutes your entire concoction has been blended into a smooth, creamy puree.  The results are great.  When you first saute the vegetables your home will fill with a savory aroma, which then takes on distinctly Indian flair when you pop the curry into the pot.  Adjust the seasonings to your liking so that it is as hot or mild as you'd like.  ...and try to serve it to your next guests.

CURRY PEA SOUP

Yields: 6 servings

Ingredients
1 Tbsp. olive oil
2-3 boneless chicken breasts 
1 large onion, chopped
2 bunches fresh spinach, chopped
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. freshly ground pepper
5-6 tsp. curry powder (amount depends on heat desired)
4 cups (or more) low-sodium vegetable or chicken stock
2 10-ounce packages frozen petite green peas or 3 pound fresh peas, shelled (about 4 1/2 cups)

Steps
  1. Heat olive oil in soup pot over medium-high heat.  Add the onions and saute until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken breasts and sprinkle with a pinch of salt and pepper.  Rotate the breasts after 2 minutes. 
  2. Add the chopped spinach and sauté until it has wilted down.  Add curry and stir 30 seconds.
  3. Add 4 cups broth and peas and bring to boil. Reduce heat; simmer until peas are very tender, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. 
  4. Remove the chicken breasts with a slotted spoon, and let them cool.  Use an immersion blender or blender to puree the soup. Thin with more broth if desired. 
  5. Dice the chicken into pieces and return to the pot.  Simmer on medium-low heat for another 15 minute.  Serve immediately or store in the refrigerator to reheat and serve at another time.

Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Peach Ginger Scones with Dried Cherries - Welcoming Guests

Scenario: You’re curled up the couch, determined to make serious progress on the endless list of tv episodes stored up in your TiVo cue.  The phone rings, sharply breaking your concentration just as Liz Lemon/Meredith Grey/Alicia Florick/Claire Dunphy (or insert a tv character of your choice) delivers a captivating line.  You pick up the received and a shrill voice hollers, “SURPRISE, we just landed in town and the plane is taxing to the gate.  We’ll have our bags claimed and be curbside within 25 minutes.  What are you up to???”  Oy – an unexpected visit from your aunt and uncle.  Which reply do you go for?
  1. “Shame, I’m just on my way out of town myself and am running late to the other airport.  Hope to catch you next time!”
  2. “Huh?!?  I can barely hear you.  Bad cell reception.” (and hang up)
  3. “Wow – call me tomorrow once you’ve settled in at your hotel and we’ll find a time to grab a nosh at Yogurtland – my treat.” 
  4.  “So cool!  I’ll fire up the coffee and then hit the road.  Look for the dark red SUV.  Can’t wait to catch up.”
There was a time when options 1 or 2 would have rolled off my tongue, and while I might still be tempted to go with 3, the example set by Avraham in Parshat Vayeira makes a compelling case for the red carpet treatment of hachnasat orchim (welcoming of guests).

Parshat Veyeira opens with God visiting Avraham just a few days after our patriarch’s circumcision.  Avraham is sitting at the entrance of his tent on a hot day when three strangers approach.  Abe immediately tells God to hang on and hastens to greet the strangers.  He offers them a foot bath, gets them settled under a shady tree, and collaborates with Sarah on a feast of treats. 

Back the truck up (to quote a former co-worker)!  What was it that Avraham did to God?  Rashi and several commentators explain that he asks God to hold on while he greets the guests.  If the value of hachnasat orchim is so important that it takes precedence over our relationship with God, then “kal v’chomer” (all the more so) the real or desperate housewife on TiVo can take a number while we properly greet our guests.

Easier said than done!  We’re busy.  We can’t be inconvenienced.  We want to know what we’ll get out of such hospitality.  One slice of Jewish wisdom lures us towards hachnasat orchim through the notion of karma.  A midrash from Rav Judah in Bava Metzia explains:

Everything which Abraham personally did for the Ministering Angels, the Holy One Blessed be God did for God's children [the Israelites]; and whatever Abraham did through a messenger, the Holy One Blessed be God did for God's children through a messenger [Moses].

This explanation has us schlepping to the airport so that when we next arrive in a foreign city we, too, will be greeted by a welcome wagon.  Perhaps this will be the case … but I’m sure we’ve all learned in some way or another that sometimes are good deeds do not come back to us ten-fold, or even at all.

What now?   We should bear the siren call of our cousin’s voice as we slug along to and fro on the traffic ridden 405 (or, insert crowded freeway of your choice) just because it’s the right thing to do?  Yup!  Pirkei Avot 5:13 outlines a series of attitudes we can take about how we give and take in this world, ranging from not sharing and not taking to taking and not sharing.  The mishna asserts, however, that the most righteous attitude is to give of yourself with no expectation of a return. 

Sure – it makes sense in a cerebral/do-the-right-thing type of way, but true hachnasat orchim is certainly easier said than done.  It takes a bit of effort, perhaps some sacrifice and sometimes a bit of inconvenience.  Need motivation to persevere?  Just think of Father Abraham.  He’s sitting at the entrance of his tent on a hot and humid day.  He’s talking to God.  He’s recovering from genital surgery.  …and, yet, his guests become top priority.

"Hasten three seah of meal [and] fine flour; knead and make cakes."

The Scone

I have grown to love working with dough.  It once seemed so daunting – terms like rise, knead, punch and flour were intimidating.  Slowly but surely I have curbed my fears and charged forward to the point where I’m now a dough lover!  I love watching as dry and wet ingredients mix together to morph from a lumpy, sticky mess to a neat, smooth ball which serves as a blank canvas.  I’m still amazed when a blob of dough rises, doubling in volume yet decreasing in weight.  Bread always seemed like a product you could only buy, and so baking your own can be an awesome feat.

Scones themselves seem to be a recipe blend together our Jewish learning + the name of this blog + trendy baking.  In Parshat Vayeira, Avraham told his guests that he would fetch a morsel of bread, and then requests that Sarah - wife and head baker - prepare cakes made from … KEMACH (flour, as in “Yeish Kemach”).  Scones are a cake-like product made from kemach.  Moreover they are deceptively simple to prepare, delectably classy to make your guests feel truly welcome.

I’ve taken to a base recipe from the Canyon Ranch archives, which I adapt to fit the flavors I have in mind and the kashrut needs (pareve vs. dairy) of the rest of the meal.  For this batch I was determined to take advantage of the fading crop of peaches.  A peach scone should be good enough, but to quote famous chef Emeril Lagasse, why not “kick it up a notch”?  Peaches are often paired with a berry of sorts in crisps and pies, so I set my eyes on tart, bing cherries as the counterpoint to the sweet stone fruit.  Weary of incorporating too many juicy ingredients in my dough, I opted for dried cherries over fresh. 

The final touch – a mix of fresh and candied ginger.  “WHAT?  That’s insane!” you might say.  Well, a couple of summers ago I stumbled upon the combination of peaches and ginger in a scone while trying to play to the taste buds of a good friend when I made my very first batch of scones.  She ranks the scones from the Ojai Café Emporium as the best in the world, and I thought her favorite flavor was Peach Ginger.  Turns out her scone of choice is just plain Peach – but some combo of my own ADHD and poor hearing led to the mix-up.  Either way, said friend exclaimed that the combo worked.

PEACH GINGER SCONES with DRIED CHERRIES

Yields: 12 scones

Ingredients

3 cups pastry flour
3 Tbsp. evaporated cane juice (aka sugar), plus additional for sprinkling
1 ½ tsp. baking powder
1 ½ tsp. baking soda
1/4 tsp. sea salt
6 Tbsp. cold unsalted butter or margarine, cut into bits
1 tsp. fresh ginger, grated
¼ cup crystallized ginger (or dried fruit), chopped
1/3 cup dried bing cherries, chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped peaches (or other fruit)
1 cup buttermilk, plus additional for brushing

Instructions 
  1. Preheat oven to 375˚ F.
  2. In a small bowl, mix the peaches, cherries, crystallized ginger and cherries.  Set to the side, allowing the flavors to comingle.
  3. In a large bowl, combine flour, evaporated cane juice, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Blend in butter until mixture resembles a coarse meal.
  4. Stir in peach mixture and buttermilk until a slightly sticky dough forms. 
  5. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Knead dough 12 to 15 times. Divide dough in half. Form each half into a 6-inch circle with a slightly rounded top.  At this point you can either proceed to baking, or refrigerate the dough up to 24 hours until ready to bake.
  6. Brush surface of dough with buttermilk and lightly sprinkle with sugar. Cut each circle into 6 wedges. Place wedges 2 inches apart on a baking sheet lightly coated with cooking spray.
  7. Bake for 12 minutes or until golden brown. Serve warm.
SHE'ELAH: What is the next opportunity you have to practice hachnasat orchim?